Making my Own Patterns

I use pattern tracing paper and drafting equipment to create patterns as I sew garb. I put markings on the pieces to indicate grainlines, fold lines and sometimes even seamlines. I don't bother with too many marks to align the pieces, but every so often, I do put them in. I mark sizes and how many pieces to cut. I use brown paper envelopes to keep the pattern pieces together with crude sketches on the front to tell me which pattern is which.

While working on the cotehardie and surcoat I made many patterns as I worked on sample garments. Each adjustment to a sample garment was copied to the pattern. Sometimes I adjusted the pattern and made a sample from it. It was a lot of work, but I think it was worth it. I now have a pattern that I can use again and again to make more than one well fitted cotehardie. The surcoat was made from a commercial pattern and was almost right. When I wear the two together, there is a little strip of skin visible between the two garments at the neckline. It looks funny and chops up the beautiful wide neckline into this patchwork of skin and fabric. I adjusted the neckline of the surcoat for the second one I made.

Sometimes I get a general pattern plan from a website. Printers and computer screens can do some 'interesting' things to graphics. I made a hood pattern based on instructions from a website. I had to make several test hoods out of cheap muslin before I got a final pattern. At the time, I thought I was being a little nit-picky to make an actual hood pattern for myself, but I've given copies of that pattern away and made hoods for members of my household. The pattern has seen a lot of use.

It can be a real headache to create patterns but in the long run, I end up with garb that fits me. If I were to use only commercial patterns without adjustment, I'd end up with garb that was pretty funny looking. Considering the average midieval garments, it's funny looking enough to begin with.

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